Five Vintage Watch Hidden Gems

Calling Attention to Our Vintage Steals

In recent years, there’s been a noticeably increasing interest in vintage watches. From record-breaking auction sales of models owned by famous wearers to copious vintage-reissues, the enthusiasm for vintage watches is undeniable. Whether it’s the story and history behind these watches or the classic, time-tested designs, there’s something alluring about models past. These watches set the foundation for designs we see today, they established trends, and they’re important pieces of horological history.

As purveyors of pre-owned watches – many of which fall into the vintage category – this trend is particularly compelling. There’s nothing more fascinating than the heritage behind a vintage model. There’s also nothing more rewarding than connecting a vintage model with its next owner. It perpetuates the next chapter of its story. Maybe you’re curious about getting into the vintage watch market or looking to add another vintage model to your collection. Sometimes, the most interesting vintage models go unnoticed among the countless offerings in our catalog. So, we decided to round up five vintage hidden gems and the stories behind them.

Rolex Date 1500

Vintage Oyster Perpetual

Rolex first debuted their groundbreaking Oyster in 1926 as the first water resistant wristwatch. Today, the model is still a crucial part of their catalog. Over the years, it has seen a number of updates and modifications. One particularly popular iteration is the Reference 1500. The brand initially introduced this model in 1962. However, the watch in our inventory dates just over ten years later to about 1973. Its run for over a decade is a testament to the 1500’s timelessness and appeal. The model comes equipped with the brand’s Caliber 1570 chronometer certified automatic movement and a date function. It’s also interesting to note the 1500 has a Sigma dial. In addition, the patina on the lume looks great on both the hands and indices.

Heuer Pewter Lemania 1500 Chronograph

Vintage Heuer

The relationship between Heuer and Lemania is an interesting partnership that spurred in the 1980s. The 1500 series first launched in 1982 and replaced the previous Valjoux movement with the Lemania 5100 chronograph. The model in our inventory, 510.503, showcases a few unique features. The simple date function, as opposed to day-date, indicates it’s a first series model. Another unique attribute is the pewter design. The line offered three stylistic options: classic stainless steel, PVD, and pewter. The pewter variation creates a distinct monochromatic look that’s simply one-of-a-kind. The bright, contrasting orange chronograph hands pop against the pewter background and give the model a handsome, sporty style.

Longines Ultra-Chron 431

Vintage Longines

The Longines Ultra-Chron is an example of one of the earliest, mass-produced high-beat watches. The brand first released the model in 1967 to commemorate their 100th anniversary. In basic terms, a high-beat watch is one with a movement whose oscillating wheel is faster than the average watch. From a technical perspective, this results in higher precision. At the time of the Ultra-Chron’s debut, Longines asserted it was the world’s most accurate watch. However, as one might guess, the higher frequency also places more strain on the internal mechanisms. This means high-beat watches must be equipped with more durable parts and better lubricants to combat the added friction. Stylistically, the Ultra-Chron is the quintessential dress watch. Plus, with the high-beat movement, it has the added bonus of the visually appealing smooth second hand.

Patek Philippe Calatrava 1509

Vintage Patek

The Calatrava is Patek Philippe’s flagship model, first introduced in 1932. Similar to the Ultra-Chron, it’s a classic dress watch with a minimalist, no-frills, time-only design. The model in our catalog hails from a few decades after the initial Calatrava debuted. The Reference 1509 first launched in the 1940s, and our particular model dates to the 1950s. This reference is most notable for its distinctive teardrop lugs. However, its design also marks the transition to the 2500 series of the model in the 1950s. The 2500 references feature the unique “Disco Volante” or “flying saucer” case style. Here, the crown rests inside the outer circular portion that lines up with the raised bezel.

Breitling Top Time 824

Vintage breitling

Last but not least in our round up of vintage hidden gems in our inventory is the Breitling Top Time 824. The brand first released the Top Time in 1964 as an entry-level chronograph. However, the model soon gained celebrity status and widespread popularity. For instance, Sean Connery sported the watch in the James Bond film Thunderball a year after its debut in 1965. One of the most notable and desirable aspects of this particular reference is the iconic reverse panda dial. Breitling was the first to introduce this style on the SuperOcean in 1957. It quickly became a favorite for its one-of-a-kind look and practical, easy legibility.

The post Five Vintage Watch Hidden Gems appeared first on Crown & Caliber Blog.

#chronograph, #rolex, #watches

Mother’s Day – What to Put on Her Wrist

Celebrate Mom with the Perfect Timepiece for Her

It’s that time of year again. The day has come to honor the most deserving yet under-appreciated women in our lives: our moms. Mothers spend most of their lives putting everyone else’s needs before their own. Instead of buying something for herself, mom puts dinner on the table and gets her kids’ school supplies. Mom rarely treats herself to something new, especially something superfluous. That’s why she deserves to be spoiled on Mother’s Day.

A watch is a gift that’s equal parts practical and fun. It’s something mom can use and enjoy every day and even pass on to her kids down the road. However, a watch is also a surefire way to make mom feel special. What woman doesn’t love a new accessory to incorporate into her wardrobe? No matter your budget or your mom’s unique style, we can help you find the right watch for her. Here, we’ve compiled a few of our favorite models from our inventory. Each of these would make a perfect Mother’s Day gift.

Rolex Yacht-Master

Mom doesn’t have to be a pro-sailor to appreciate the Rolex Yacht-Master. If she simply enjoys a day at the beach, she’ll adore the nautical aesthetic and functionality of this model. The Yacht-Master is a relatively new addition to the Rolex catalog, first debuting in 1992. Two years later, the brand added a ladies’ version to the collection. However, it wasn’t until 2005 that Rolex introduced the stainless steel and 18-karat yellow gold variation we see here. At the end of the day, you really can’t go wrong with a Rolex. The two-tone colorway is versatile enough to compliment other jewelry mom has in her collection. Though the Yacht-Master is somewhat sporty, it can easily be dressed up or down for any occasion.

Patek Philippe Twenty-4

Striking, sophisticated, stylish – if these words describe your mom, she’ll love the Patek Philippe Twenty-4. When the brand first unveiled the collection in 1999, it was a remarkably unique addition to their catalog. The modern design is a bit of a departure from Patek Philippe’s typical, tradition aesthetic. However, the Twenty-4 quickly became the brand’s premier ladies’ line. The collection takes a contemporary approach to classic Art Deco principles with women leading active lifestyles in mind. The Twenty-4 was Patek Philippe’s first ladies’ model offered in stainless steel, giving it a subtle sporty touch. However, as we see with this model, the diamond accents give it an equally elegant and feminine appeal.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Gran Sport Reverso

Your mom is an icon, and she deserves a watch that’s equally iconic on her wrist. Enter the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. The model and the brand have become synonymous since the model debuted back in 1931. The Gran Sport Reverso is a newer take on the classic Reverso, launching just a couple of decades ago in 1998. Jaeger-LeCoultre first designed the original model for polo players who needed to protect their watches on the field. However, the initial design had a distinctly dressy appeal despite being purpose-built for sport. As the name suggests, the Gran Sport variation revives the sporty inspiration behind the collection. Still, the modest 28mm case is perfectly slim for mom’s wrist.

Cartier Roadster

Almost every woman knows the Cartier name and associates it with indulgence and luxury. However, mom doesn’t have to be ultra-girly to enjoy a Cartier timepiece. The Roadster is the perfect example of the brand’s range of offerings. Its design draws inspiration from the curves of the sport and race cars of the 1950’s. Though it’s a racing model, its tonneau-shaped case is distinctly softer than Cartier’s other square and rectangular models. Ultimately, the Roadster strives the perfect balance of sportiness and femininity, making it versatile enough for any mom.

Hublot Classic Fusion

For a mom who’s daring and bold, look no further than the Hublot Classic Fusion. The design draws inspiration from the brand’s iconic Big Bang. However, the Classic Fusion is a bit more refined, with a slimmer profile and a cleaner dial layout. Still, it incorporates a number of Hublot’s trademark elements, like the one-of-a-kind porthole-shaped case and pronounced hour markers. Despite its name, the Classic Fusion is quite modern. This variation features a unique matte black textured dial, which pops against the 18-karat rose gold bezel, hands, and indices. For a sporty touch, the model we see here is finished off with a black rubber strap.

Omega Speedmaster Date

Mom is an indispensable part of your family’s history. The same is true for the Speedmaster in the history of Omega. The model was the first watch to embark on the surface of the moon on the wrist of Buzz Aldrin. From that moment forward, it solidified Omega’s partnership with NASA and the space program, one that continues today. On top of its historical significance, the Speedmaster has an impeccably timeless design. It features a classic round case, clean lines, and overall sleek appearance that looks smart on the wrist. Mom is sure to appreciate this model for its heritage and its stylish charm.

TAG Heuer Monaco

Each mom is one-of-a-kind and worthy of a watch that’s just as special as she is. When TAG Heuer released the Monaco in 1969, it broke the mold. The model is a key part of the brand’s history in a couple respects. First, the racing watch is a symbol of TAG Heuer’s longstanding presence in the sport. In addition, the Monaco was the world’s first waterproof automatic chronograph with a square case. This particular iteration features a stunning 18-karat yellow gold construction paired with a warm, brown leather strap. If you’re looking for an alternative to a classic round watch for your mom, the Monaco is an excellent option.

The post Mother’s Day – What to Put on Her Wrist appeared first on Crown & Caliber Blog.

#rolex, #watches

Baselworld 2019: Top 5 Ladies Watches

2019 Basel Fair may not have satisfied the purists and watch enthusiasts for men’s watches, but it was a great year for women’s watches. This year independent and mainstream brands made an honest effort to showcase ladies’ watches. We have selected best five watches from the fair just in time for Mother’s Day.

MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT

This is MB&F’s first three-dimensional watch dedicated to #women.

A high, extravagantly convex dome of sapphire crystal rises from the bezel. Beneath the dome, a subtly curved dial plate, liquidly black with layers of stretched lacquer or glittering with blazing white diamonds.

An asymmetric ventricular opening in the dial plate frames the heart of the LM FlyingT engine – a cinematic flying tourbillon that beats at a serene rate of 2.5Hz (18,000vph). The tourbillon projects high above the rest of the engine, a kinetic, dynamic column that stops just short of the apex of the sapphire crystal dome. Affixed to the top of the upper tourbillon cage is a single large diamond that rotates simultaneously with the flying tourbillon, emitting the fiery brilliance of the very best quality stones.

At the 7 o’clock position – another reference to the numeric theme that runs throughout LM FlyingT – is a dial of black or white lacquer that displays the hours and minutes with a pair of elegant serpentine hands in blued gold. The dial is inclined at a 50° tilt so that the time can be read only by the wearer, an intimate communication that highlights the personal nature of LM FlyingT.  On the reverse, the automatic winding rotor takes the shape of a three-dimensional red gold sun with sculpted rays, providing LM FlyingT with four days of power reserve.

The LM FlyingT launches in three 18K white gold versions:
Diamond-set case with black lacquer dial plate $115,000
Fully diamond-set case and dial plate $145,000
Fully baguette diamond-set case and dial plate $315,000

RJ Arraw Ladies Star Twist

RJ, previously known as Romain Jerome, has a reinvented itself with new collection appealing to both men and women. The Arraw Ladies collection has a patented spinning bezel fitted on a 39mm titanium or red gold case which has a trendy look and feel. The Star Twist name is drawn from the colorful gemstones which reflect the beauty and diversity of space with precious sapphires, topazes and amethysts.

The dials are available in four different colors. Each dial represents a different deep-sky object: Titanium Blue Spiral Galaxy, Titanium Purple Spiral Galaxy, Titanium Glowing Eye Nebula, and Gold Blue Magellanic Cloud. Each color is limited to 100 editions.

The RJ-2000 automatic movement displays central hours, minutes, and seconds and has a date aperture at 3 o’clock. Star Twist is waterproof up to 100 meters and is equipped with the interchangeable strap system that allows the strap to be released with a simple ‘click’ by pushing simultaneously on the two lug screws. The retail price of Star Twist Titanium is $16,200, and Gold Blue is $31,800.

Bvlgari Serpenti Seduttori Rose Gold and Diamonds

Bvlgari has extended the Serpenti collection with a bold new Serpenti Seduttori in rose gold. This new collection features an unprecedented design that represents a bold new chapter for the world of Serpenti timepieces with its iconic drop-shaped watch head, a motif that comes from the Serpenti Tubogas watch.

Serpenti is known for its recognizable case shape and the new Seduttori is thinner than ever before; it has a flexible new bracelet inspired by the original Serpenti watches and is crowned in cabochon-cut gemstones in a nod to Bvlgari’s DNA as the Roman jeweler. The Serpenti Seduttori collection also includes watches in yellow gold, white gold, and diamond pavé.

Serpenti Seduttori has a lovely 18kt rose gold bracelet with hexagonal stylized pattern and folding buckle; 18kt rose gold 33mm case set with 38 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.38 ct); 18kt rose gold crown set with a cabochon-cut pink rubellite; opaline silver-toned dial; and a high-precision quartz movement. The watch is water-resistant to 30 meters. The retail price of Seduttori Rose Gold with Diamonds is $27,100.

Bell & Ross BR S Black Diamond Eagle Diamonds

Bell & Ross introduced the BRS women’s collection in 2016. BRS pays tribute to the twinkling stars that punctuate the celestial sphere like an array of tiny spotlights illuminating the night. For 2019 BRS model, the brand used the Aquila, or Eagle Constellation, one of the brightest clusters of stars in the Milky Way.

The BR S Black Diamond Eagle 39mm in diameter, and has a slim profile with the BR-CAL.102. Quartz movement. The case is polished black ceramic and the steel bezel is set with 66 white diamonds totaling 0.99 ct. The black dial has hour circle featuring metal appliqués and depicts the Aquila constellation represented by 7 diamonds.

This feminine watch has two strap options – black satin calfskin leather or black ceramic bracelet. BR S Black Diamond Eagle Diamonds on retail price is $6,900 on satin strap, and $7,400 on bracelet.

Claude Meylan Petite Tortue

The Petite Tortue has a unique case design in the shape of a turtle. The movement is partially revealed, which gives the overall appearance of a feminine yet technical watch. The dial reveals the balance wheel and the rotor at 6 o’clock. The Tortue case diameter is 31mm x 31mm and the case height is 11mm.

This watch has a special automatic movement with base ETA 2671 caliber, but instead of the full rotor, Claude Mylan has re-worked it with a micro-rotor with côtes de Genève decoration. The rhodium-plated dial and the 3 o’clock bridge are adorned with a fine sunrise guilloche. The time indication is up at 12 o’clock with polished and brush dauphine-style hands for the hours
and minutes, and is balanced by the rotor at 6 o’clock.

A satin strap compliments the overall feminine design of the Petite Tortue. The retail price of the watch is CHF 4,500.

Photo Credit: Respective brands

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Baume & Mercier Clifton Club GMT


The Clifton Club GMT watch is powered by a Swiss self-winding mechanical movement, with the second time zone displayed by a central hand and the date visible in an aperture at 3 o’clock. This new reference has many advantages, including a 42-hour power reserve.

With a diameter of 42mm, its polished/satin-finished stainless steel case, equipped with a protected crown, fits all wrists. Thanks to a contained thickness of 10.6 mm, the watch slips easily under a shirt sleeve.

Clifton Club GMT 10486

Clifton Club GMT 10487

The second time zone is read by a central hand and a deep azure blue aluminum bezel, graduated over 24 hours. A sensational complication for globetrotters, the instant display of a second time-zone makes it possible to see at a glance the local time and the reference time at home.

With the opaline black of its dial, to be totally legible in the dark, the hour and minute hands and the Phi logo at 12 o’clock are coated with white Superluminova blue emission. Water resistant to 100 meters, the watch is also equipped with an antiglare scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and a screw-down full case back decorated with the Clifton Club coat of arms.

The Clifton Club GMT is available in two versions, with two bracelets. The first one features a black “All Road” calfskin strap, decorated with sailcloth-like patterns and a blue rubberized calfskin lining, while the second one comes with a polished/satin-finished three-row stainless steel bracelet.

Both bracelets feature an adjustable triple folding buckle and two stainless steel side push-pieces for maximum safety and an easy opening.


Clifton Club 10486 US$2,200

Clifton Club 10487 US$2,350


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Pinion TT Watches

British watchmaking has certainly experienced somewhat of a renaissance over the last few years with many new brands making a name for themselves and so far as luxury watches are concerned, Pinion are one of the best of the bunch. This is something which can be witnessed first hand with their exemplary looking Pinion TT Watches which are so-called because of their two time zone functionality and for any man after an accomplished new accessory for their wrist in 2019, this would certainly be a top pick of ours here at The Coolector.

The Pinion TT Watch comes in two different versions with distinctly different dials so you can choose the one that best fits your own style tastes. The two dial variants are Maroon and Anthracite, with each titanium GMT watch boasting a contrasting colour scheme and central seconds hand. The TT is a 42mm titanium GMT watch with dual time-zone functionality and powered by a Swiss automatic movement.


On both models of the Pinion TT Watches you’ll find a second time-zone is indicated by a beau-blue coloured GMT hand that can be configured to point at the 24-hour numerals on the dial. The 42mm case is manufactured from the excellent material of titanium which ensures that the watch is around 25% lighter than its steel equivalent but, it’s important to note, titanium is more robust and stronger than steel and boasts a distinctive grey hue colouring in a brushed/satin finish that adds to the aesthetic appeal of the timepieces.

As with previous timepieces to be found in the Pinion collection, such as the Pure and R-1969, the Pinion TT Watches feature applied typographic numerals which are raised above the base of the dial for an attractive and striking visual impact that we’re loving here at Coolector HQ. As a result of this, the design of the 24 hour GMT hand features a curve to allow it to pass these numerals.

At the heart of the titanium GMT watch is a Swiss made automatic movement, namely, the ETA 2893-2 movement, which provides incredibly reliable and accurate timekeeping day in, day out. The decorated movement and Pinion beau-blue winding rotor can be seen through the glass exhibition case back on the reverse and this is a design feature that we always love to see on high end watches like the Pinion TT. As with all Pinion watches, the TT has a water resistance up to 100 metres in depth and it is finished, assembled and tested by experienced watchmakers in England.


Pinion are a watchmaker that go above and beyond when it comes to the details of their watches and the TT is no exception. It has a configurable 24-hour hand / second timezone (GMT), Pinion custom printed date display, push in crown, double O-ring, 42 hour power reserve and an automatic self-winding mechanism. The quality is plain to see and it’s easy to see why the TT is one of the British watchmaker’s most popular timepieces to date.

For any man after a high quality watch over the next few months which boasts unparalleled performance, materials and style, you’ll not find many watches that tick all these boxes as well as the Pinion TT. With prices starting £2350, it represents the mid-level luxury watch range incredibly well and it boasts the sort of quality that you’re likely to want to pass on from one generation to the next.


Newmark 6BB RAF Chronograph Pilot Watch

The Royal Air Force is an institution in the world of aviation and the timepieces that they’ve worn on their wrist are the thing of legend, so when we came across this Newmark 6BB RAF Chronograph Pilot Watch funding on Kickstarter, you won’t be surprised to hear we had our heads thoroughly turned here at Coolector HQ. This exemplary timepiece is a faithful recreation of the Newmark Chronograph watch which was issued to RAF pilots in 1980 and it is being made into an everyday watch for everyone.

Back in 1980, the Royal Air Force issued the Newmark Chronograph to its aircrew and only 500 of these iconic watches were ever built. Vulcan, Harrier, Sea-King and Tornado crew would count amongst those who relied upon their Newmark timepiece.In 2018, via Kickstarter, the Newmark Chronograph is back. Unquestionably, a worthy successor to the original, the Newmark 6BB manages to maintain the vintage charm of the original but has plenty of contemporary updates to make it stand out even more.


Whilst the original Newmark was, understandably, only available to those in the Royal Air Force, this time round it will be available to all aviation aficionados and with prices starting at just £237, it’s an absolutely great deal for those who want to get their hands on one. With an understated, minimalistic aesthetic, this cracking timepiece is suited to young and old alike and the original watches really were the epitome of form follows function, military watches at their purest.

In 1983, British Military Chronographs were updated to Seiko quartz models; which whilst undoubtedly more reliable were lacking the vintage feel (and distinctive shape) of the originals which were to become known as ‘The Fabulous Four’. The Newmark 6BB RAF Chronograph Pilot Watch on Kickstarter represented a great opportunity to craft a contemporary version of this classic watch and provide it at a fraction of the cost of an original. They weren’t designing a watch from scratch so the objective was to produce something as close to the original as possible. And, as you can see, it is mission well and truly accomplished.

The Newmark 6BB RAF Chronograph Pilot Watch has a striking, asymmetrical design and it is crafted from 316L stainless steel, with a minimal bezel giving the dial both prominence and meaning. The lugs curve elegantly as they should which ensures that the watch sits comfortably on the wrist and on the caseback you’ll find the Newmark logo and a (unique to each watch) serial number. Last but not least, you’ll find the NATO Stock Number (NSN) issued to the Newmark 6BB by the British Ministry of Defence: 6645-99-870-5073.


As you would expect of an aviation timepiece used by the RAF, the dial is incredibly legible and precisely designed. It has been finished in velvet black with matte white numerals, meaning that just one glance is all it takes to see the time in all types of conditions. The sub-dials have the correct concentric circles and Newmark have rightly kept the velvet finish for these too instead of the glossy effect seen on some chronographs. The dial numerals and Newmark logo have been painstakingly recreated from the original to guarantee that the 6BB looks today, just as it did back in the 1980 original.

Available for under £300 during the Kickstarter campaign, which has a couple of weeks remaining (so move quickly to bag your bargain), this Newmark 6BB RAF Chronograph Pilot Watch is a fantastically well made and devilishly detailed recreation of the iconic original. The high quality  Seiko VK64A Meca Quartz movement ensures the timepieces’ accuracy and everywhere you look it boasts gorgeous, dapper design detailing that really catches the eye. An icon reborn.


Akerfalk First Season Watch Review

24-hour watches are an interesting phenomenon. The way they work is that instead of the hour hand circling the dial once every 12 hours, it completes one revolution a day instead. The minute hand still rotates fully once an hour, so you have to retrain your brain to read the hour it’s pointing to rather than look at the position at a glance. Whilst there’s no obvious advantage of this style of dial, it’s a pleasant alternative, and due to 24 hour time used by the military, scientists, pilots etc, it would definitely be handy for them.

The Akerfalk First Season takes inspiration from the classic vintage era of the 60s; personally, I find it very striking and quite possibly the nicest 24-hour watch I’ve come across. Let’s check it out.

The video review

The specs

The case

The Akerfalk does not utilise just a standard barrel which is good to see. Instead, it’s curvaceous, slender and certainly vintage inspired – primarily due to the highly domed crystal and thin, spindly lugs.

I find the size is perfect for my 7.25” wrist, and the slender height allows it to be easy to wear under a cuff. The case is polished in its entirety, and due to the fluid nature of how it’s formed, it reflects the light in a variety of ways.

The Akerfalk First Season is fitted with a K1 hardened mineral crystal. This may put some off as it’s not sapphire, but I’ve never had an issue with hardened mineral before. The primary selling point behind the K1 crystal is that it’s more scratch resistant than mineral, and more shatter resistant than sapphire, so in many manufacturers eyes, the best of both worlds. Whatever the case, the crystal is massively double domed: it provides beautiful clarity to the light dial and the distorted edges create a wonderful view. It’s certainly a key feature for the 60s vintage theme.

The crown is splendid – I love the shape, and to my surprise it’s screw-in. The shape is like an upside-down cupcake paper cup which is refreshingly different. It’s also rather dainty which suits the size of the case well and is fully polished, with effective grip and is accurately manufactured.

The caseback is simple but interesting; a sort of round porthole in the centre with a forest silhouette at the top. Various specifics surround the outer edge, all in a thin, delicately engraved typeface. It’s also fully polished to complete the entirety of the case – but just be careful of any scratches as you pop it down.

The dial

For me, the most striking aspects of the dial are: firstly, the beautiful subtle champagne colour, and secondly, the usage of both steel and gold for the hands. It’s incredibly classy and certainly has that 60’s vibe.

The colour of the dial is delightful, at certain angles it has an aged feel. The simple, crisp and delicate printwork works really well on top: with a combined minute track and hour indication around the outside, as well as the logo in the top half, and the model name and country of origin in the bottom half.

It appears to be domed around the edges, following the highly domed crystal. I love the depth this technique provides; it’s also a real eye-catcher.

The hands are a thin index shape, both are polished, but the hour hand is steel whilst the minute hand is a gold colour. They both work so well with the watch; tying the case and dial together perfectly. I feel they are the stand-out feature that I immediately loved.


The straps

You get the choice of three different straps: leather, nato, and Milanese mesh.

I’ll be honest, I wasn’t expecting an amazing quality leather strap. I thought it was going to be a bit on the thin side, and nothing special. Well, how wrong I was! The strap is impressively thick yet supple, with a pleasantly soft top grain. The soft black hue works in contrast to offset the lighter dial.

The strap comes fitted with a standard tang buckle, fully polished to match the case. The logo is laser etched on one side of the top bar – personally, I’d have preferred it to be engraved.

The nato strap that comes with the watch isn’t anything too exciting, but the green works pretty well with the dial. Interestingly, the tang buckle is exactly the same apart from the logo is engraved rather than laser etched.

There’s also the option of a Milanese mesh bracelet. The mesh is tight and neat, and it’s rather thick, showcasing the quality. The logo is engraved on the buckle, which is easy enough to adjust. I was pleasantly surprised to find quick-release pins on this bracelet too, which means you can switch out the straps and change the look within a minute.

The movement

The movement used is the Ronda 515.24H – which is basically the 24-hour version of their standard trusty quartz movement (the 515). Using this movement means that the hour hand has been connected to the 24-hour pinion rather than the normal hour pinion. It also means that the hour hand can now be set quite independently from the minute hand (crown’s second step) as well as normally (crown fully pulled out). It has 1 jewel and 45-month battery life.

Final comments

I believe Akerfalk have created a beautiful timepiece that is the perfect option for those who are after a vintage-inspired watch that’s a bit different. The dial is an excellent example of effective, simple design. There’s not a lot to it, but it’s so clean, crisp and striking. I love the hands, the flowing case, and the highly domed crystal. Yes, it’s not sapphire, but in this instance, I believe the K1 hardened mineral will suffice. It’s a great all-rounder, and the 24-hour aspect of it sets it apart from the crowd.