Baume & Mercier Clifton Club GMT

TWO NEW MODELS ENRICH BAUME & MERCIER’S CLIFTON CLUB COLLECTION: A GMT VERSION AND A BRONZE AUTOMATIC VERSION WITH A REFINED NEO-RETRO LOOK. TODAY, WE PRESENT THE CLIFTON CLUB GMT VERSION.

The Clifton Club GMT watch is powered by a Swiss self-winding mechanical movement, with the second time zone displayed by a central hand and the date visible in an aperture at 3 o’clock. This new reference has many advantages, including a 42-hour power reserve.

With a diameter of 42mm, its polished/satin-finished stainless steel case, equipped with a protected crown, fits all wrists. Thanks to a contained thickness of 10.6 mm, the watch slips easily under a shirt sleeve.

Clifton Club GMT 10486

Clifton Club GMT 10487

The second time zone is read by a central hand and a deep azure blue aluminum bezel, graduated over 24 hours. A sensational complication for globetrotters, the instant display of a second time-zone makes it possible to see at a glance the local time and the reference time at home.

With the opaline black of its dial, to be totally legible in the dark, the hour and minute hands and the Phi logo at 12 o’clock are coated with white Superluminova blue emission. Water resistant to 100 meters, the watch is also equipped with an antiglare scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and a screw-down full case back decorated with the Clifton Club coat of arms.

The Clifton Club GMT is available in two versions, with two bracelets. The first one features a black “All Road” calfskin strap, decorated with sailcloth-like patterns and a blue rubberized calfskin lining, while the second one comes with a polished/satin-finished three-row stainless steel bracelet.

Both bracelets feature an adjustable triple folding buckle and two stainless steel side push-pieces for maximum safety and an easy opening.

HOW MUCH?

Clifton Club 10486 US$2,200

Clifton Club 10487 US$2,350

 

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#watches

Pinion TT Watches

British watchmaking has certainly experienced somewhat of a renaissance over the last few years with many new brands making a name for themselves and so far as luxury watches are concerned, Pinion are one of the best of the bunch. This is something which can be witnessed first hand with their exemplary looking Pinion TT Watches which are so-called because of their two time zone functionality and for any man after an accomplished new accessory for their wrist in 2019, this would certainly be a top pick of ours here at The Coolector.

The Pinion TT Watch comes in two different versions with distinctly different dials so you can choose the one that best fits your own style tastes. The two dial variants are Maroon and Anthracite, with each titanium GMT watch boasting a contrasting colour scheme and central seconds hand. The TT is a 42mm titanium GMT watch with dual time-zone functionality and powered by a Swiss automatic movement.

FIRST CLASS CRAFTSMANSHIP

On both models of the Pinion TT Watches you’ll find a second time-zone is indicated by a beau-blue coloured GMT hand that can be configured to point at the 24-hour numerals on the dial. The 42mm case is manufactured from the excellent material of titanium which ensures that the watch is around 25% lighter than its steel equivalent but, it’s important to note, titanium is more robust and stronger than steel and boasts a distinctive grey hue colouring in a brushed/satin finish that adds to the aesthetic appeal of the timepieces.

As with previous timepieces to be found in the Pinion collection, such as the Pure and R-1969, the Pinion TT Watches feature applied typographic numerals which are raised above the base of the dial for an attractive and striking visual impact that we’re loving here at Coolector HQ. As a result of this, the design of the 24 hour GMT hand features a curve to allow it to pass these numerals.

At the heart of the titanium GMT watch is a Swiss made automatic movement, namely, the ETA 2893-2 movement, which provides incredibly reliable and accurate timekeeping day in, day out. The decorated movement and Pinion beau-blue winding rotor can be seen through the glass exhibition case back on the reverse and this is a design feature that we always love to see on high end watches like the Pinion TT. As with all Pinion watches, the TT has a water resistance up to 100 metres in depth and it is finished, assembled and tested by experienced watchmakers in England.

DEVILISH DETAIL

Pinion are a watchmaker that go above and beyond when it comes to the details of their watches and the TT is no exception. It has a configurable 24-hour hand / second timezone (GMT), Pinion custom printed date display, push in crown, double O-ring, 42 hour power reserve and an automatic self-winding mechanism. The quality is plain to see and it’s easy to see why the TT is one of the British watchmaker’s most popular timepieces to date.

For any man after a high quality watch over the next few months which boasts unparalleled performance, materials and style, you’ll not find many watches that tick all these boxes as well as the Pinion TT. With prices starting £2350, it represents the mid-level luxury watch range incredibly well and it boasts the sort of quality that you’re likely to want to pass on from one generation to the next.

#watches

Newmark 6BB RAF Chronograph Pilot Watch

The Royal Air Force is an institution in the world of aviation and the timepieces that they’ve worn on their wrist are the thing of legend, so when we came across this Newmark 6BB RAF Chronograph Pilot Watch funding on Kickstarter, you won’t be surprised to hear we had our heads thoroughly turned here at Coolector HQ. This exemplary timepiece is a faithful recreation of the Newmark Chronograph watch which was issued to RAF pilots in 1980 and it is being made into an everyday watch for everyone.

Back in 1980, the Royal Air Force issued the Newmark Chronograph to its aircrew and only 500 of these iconic watches were ever built. Vulcan, Harrier, Sea-King and Tornado crew would count amongst those who relied upon their Newmark timepiece.In 2018, via Kickstarter, the Newmark Chronograph is back. Unquestionably, a worthy successor to the original, the Newmark 6BB manages to maintain the vintage charm of the original but has plenty of contemporary updates to make it stand out even more.

REBIRTH OF AN ICON

Whilst the original Newmark was, understandably, only available to those in the Royal Air Force, this time round it will be available to all aviation aficionados and with prices starting at just £237, it’s an absolutely great deal for those who want to get their hands on one. With an understated, minimalistic aesthetic, this cracking timepiece is suited to young and old alike and the original watches really were the epitome of form follows function, military watches at their purest.

In 1983, British Military Chronographs were updated to Seiko quartz models; which whilst undoubtedly more reliable were lacking the vintage feel (and distinctive shape) of the originals which were to become known as ‘The Fabulous Four’. The Newmark 6BB RAF Chronograph Pilot Watch on Kickstarter represented a great opportunity to craft a contemporary version of this classic watch and provide it at a fraction of the cost of an original. They weren’t designing a watch from scratch so the objective was to produce something as close to the original as possible. And, as you can see, it is mission well and truly accomplished.

The Newmark 6BB RAF Chronograph Pilot Watch has a striking, asymmetrical design and it is crafted from 316L stainless steel, with a minimal bezel giving the dial both prominence and meaning. The lugs curve elegantly as they should which ensures that the watch sits comfortably on the wrist and on the caseback you’ll find the Newmark logo and a (unique to each watch) serial number. Last but not least, you’ll find the NATO Stock Number (NSN) issued to the Newmark 6BB by the British Ministry of Defence: 6645-99-870-5073.

CLEAR & PRECISE

As you would expect of an aviation timepiece used by the RAF, the dial is incredibly legible and precisely designed. It has been finished in velvet black with matte white numerals, meaning that just one glance is all it takes to see the time in all types of conditions. The sub-dials have the correct concentric circles and Newmark have rightly kept the velvet finish for these too instead of the glossy effect seen on some chronographs. The dial numerals and Newmark logo have been painstakingly recreated from the original to guarantee that the 6BB looks today, just as it did back in the 1980 original.

Available for under £300 during the Kickstarter campaign, which has a couple of weeks remaining (so move quickly to bag your bargain), this Newmark 6BB RAF Chronograph Pilot Watch is a fantastically well made and devilishly detailed recreation of the iconic original. The high quality  Seiko VK64A Meca Quartz movement ensures the timepieces’ accuracy and everywhere you look it boasts gorgeous, dapper design detailing that really catches the eye. An icon reborn.

#watches

Akerfalk First Season Watch Review

24-hour watches are an interesting phenomenon. The way they work is that instead of the hour hand circling the dial once every 12 hours, it completes one revolution a day instead. The minute hand still rotates fully once an hour, so you have to retrain your brain to read the hour it’s pointing to rather than look at the position at a glance. Whilst there’s no obvious advantage of this style of dial, it’s a pleasant alternative, and due to 24 hour time used by the military, scientists, pilots etc, it would definitely be handy for them.

The Akerfalk First Season takes inspiration from the classic vintage era of the 60s; personally, I find it very striking and quite possibly the nicest 24-hour watch I’ve come across. Let’s check it out.

The video review

The specs

The case

The Akerfalk does not utilise just a standard barrel which is good to see. Instead, it’s curvaceous, slender and certainly vintage inspired – primarily due to the highly domed crystal and thin, spindly lugs.

I find the size is perfect for my 7.25” wrist, and the slender height allows it to be easy to wear under a cuff. The case is polished in its entirety, and due to the fluid nature of how it’s formed, it reflects the light in a variety of ways.

The Akerfalk First Season is fitted with a K1 hardened mineral crystal. This may put some off as it’s not sapphire, but I’ve never had an issue with hardened mineral before. The primary selling point behind the K1 crystal is that it’s more scratch resistant than mineral, and more shatter resistant than sapphire, so in many manufacturers eyes, the best of both worlds. Whatever the case, the crystal is massively double domed: it provides beautiful clarity to the light dial and the distorted edges create a wonderful view. It’s certainly a key feature for the 60s vintage theme.

The crown is splendid – I love the shape, and to my surprise it’s screw-in. The shape is like an upside-down cupcake paper cup which is refreshingly different. It’s also rather dainty which suits the size of the case well and is fully polished, with effective grip and is accurately manufactured.

The caseback is simple but interesting; a sort of round porthole in the centre with a forest silhouette at the top. Various specifics surround the outer edge, all in a thin, delicately engraved typeface. It’s also fully polished to complete the entirety of the case – but just be careful of any scratches as you pop it down.

The dial

For me, the most striking aspects of the dial are: firstly, the beautiful subtle champagne colour, and secondly, the usage of both steel and gold for the hands. It’s incredibly classy and certainly has that 60’s vibe.

The colour of the dial is delightful, at certain angles it has an aged feel. The simple, crisp and delicate printwork works really well on top: with a combined minute track and hour indication around the outside, as well as the logo in the top half, and the model name and country of origin in the bottom half.

It appears to be domed around the edges, following the highly domed crystal. I love the depth this technique provides; it’s also a real eye-catcher.

The hands are a thin index shape, both are polished, but the hour hand is steel whilst the minute hand is a gold colour. They both work so well with the watch; tying the case and dial together perfectly. I feel they are the stand-out feature that I immediately loved.

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The straps

You get the choice of three different straps: leather, nato, and Milanese mesh.

I’ll be honest, I wasn’t expecting an amazing quality leather strap. I thought it was going to be a bit on the thin side, and nothing special. Well, how wrong I was! The strap is impressively thick yet supple, with a pleasantly soft top grain. The soft black hue works in contrast to offset the lighter dial.

The strap comes fitted with a standard tang buckle, fully polished to match the case. The logo is laser etched on one side of the top bar – personally, I’d have preferred it to be engraved.

The nato strap that comes with the watch isn’t anything too exciting, but the green works pretty well with the dial. Interestingly, the tang buckle is exactly the same apart from the logo is engraved rather than laser etched.

There’s also the option of a Milanese mesh bracelet. The mesh is tight and neat, and it’s rather thick, showcasing the quality. The logo is engraved on the buckle, which is easy enough to adjust. I was pleasantly surprised to find quick-release pins on this bracelet too, which means you can switch out the straps and change the look within a minute.

The movement

The movement used is the Ronda 515.24H – which is basically the 24-hour version of their standard trusty quartz movement (the 515). Using this movement means that the hour hand has been connected to the 24-hour pinion rather than the normal hour pinion. It also means that the hour hand can now be set quite independently from the minute hand (crown’s second step) as well as normally (crown fully pulled out). It has 1 jewel and 45-month battery life.

Final comments

I believe Akerfalk have created a beautiful timepiece that is the perfect option for those who are after a vintage-inspired watch that’s a bit different. The dial is an excellent example of effective, simple design. There’s not a lot to it, but it’s so clean, crisp and striking. I love the hands, the flowing case, and the highly domed crystal. Yes, it’s not sapphire, but in this instance, I believe the K1 hardened mineral will suffice. It’s a great all-rounder, and the 24-hour aspect of it sets it apart from the crowd.

#watches

Up Close with the MB&F Legacy Machine Split Escapement in Titanium

MB&F Legacy Machine Split Escapement 8

First unveiled two years ago, the MB&F Legacy Machine Split Escapement (LM SE) was an exercise in simplification, powered by calibre in the LM Perpetual but freed of the perpetual calendar. That brought to the fore the balance wheel, suspended high above the dial by an elegantly arched balance bridge, while displaying the time, date and power reserve across three sub dials.

And now – in a somewhat predictable move – MB&F has unveiled the latest version of the LM SE, combining a titanium case and a green dial. Physically it’s the same size, 44mm wide by 17.5mm, but now lighter.

MB&F Legacy Machine Split Escapement 2

MB&F Legacy Machine Split Escapement

The blue-green, slightly iridescent dial with a radial brushed finish was used before on the LM1 Dubai Edition,??LM2 Titanium and the LM Perpetual Titanium. It is achieved through plasma-enhanced chemical vapor deposition (or PECVD), a chemical process that vaporises metal and deposits it as a thin film layer on the dial surface.

It’s a good looking watch – the grey of the titanium case matches the green well – but the titanium-green combination feels well used by now.

MB&F Legacy Machine Split Escapement 7

The details of the dial haven’t changed: three white lacquered sub-dials, and the balance held in place by an organically shaped bridge made of lustrously polished steel

AND THE IMPRESSIVE MOVEMENT

The watch is mechanically identical to the earlier white gold version, featuring the same “Split Escapement” that first made its appearance in the LM Perpetual – although given the complexity of the latter, the escapement was much less apparent. Here the Split Escapement offers more visual payoff with the open spaces of the dial only highlighting the missing escapement.

The Split Escapement label is quite literal, as the balance has been separated from the escapement. The suspended balance wheels of all prior Legacy Machines have all featured a conventional construction, with the balance, pallet fork and escape wheel, side by side, as they would be on any movement with a lever escapement.

But in the LM Split Escapement, which was conceived by Irish watchmaker Stephen McDonnell, there is no sign of the lever and escape wheel on the dial side, instead, they are situated on the back of the watch.

MB&F Legacy Machine Split Escapement 3

This was achieved with the use of a 11.78mm long balance staff that runs through the centre of the movement to connect the balance wheel and pallet fork.

MB&F Legacy Machine Split Escapement 9

And to eliminate the effects of having such a long staff under continuous torsion, it is fitted at each end with an anti-shock, jewelled bearing while the bridge holding the pallet and escape wheel is separate, allowing for fine adjustment of its position. The mass of the elongated balance staff is also compensated by twin barrels that offer a 72-hour power reserve.

MB&F Legacy Machine Split Escapement 6

The escapement, with its separate bridge, visible from the back

As before, the hand-wound movement is designed and finished to the same level as the LM Perpetual, despite the LM SE being much more affordable.

MB&F has steadily improved the finishing on its Legacy Machines from the LM1 to LM SE, and it shows. The bridges are beautifully laid out and shaped, with complex curves that draw attention to the escape wheel an gear train.

Highly textural Geneva stripes cover the bridges, while their edges are chamfered, polished, and replete with inward angles. And even the winding click has bevelled edges and countersinks.

MB&F Legacy Machine Split Escapement 4

MB&F Legacy Machine Split Escapement 5

The spring for the winding click

CONCLUDING THOUGHTS

MB&F’s relentless pursuit of the novel and avant-garde (SpaceshipRobotSpider!) means that anything derivative, even if it’s extremely well made as in this case, feels unexciting. The brand has, in short, painted itself into a corner. But that doesn’t take away from the watch itself, which is marvellously conceived and finished.

PRICE AND AVAILABILITY

The MB&F Legacy Split Escapement in titanium is limited to 18 pieces and priced at 64,000 Swiss Francs.

#watches

The most expensive watch of the year

How is it possible to make a very rare Patek Philippe even rarer and much more expensive? Well, if there’s written “Tiffany & Co.” or perhaps “Asprey” on the dial, then both the value and the demand increases – a lot!

Sotheby’s in Geneva set a new world record for the most expensive watch sold at auction during 2018 with their “Important Watches” auction earlier this week. A truly magnificent and important Patek Philippe ref. 2499 in yellow gold, chronograph with perpetual calendar and moon phase, from 1952 sold for nearly 3.9 million USD! The reason of why the watch became the most expensive watch of the year is mainly due to the Asprey stamp; meaning that it was retailed by Asprey. Well, to clarify, it’s a 2499, one of the finest watches of all time, so even without the retail stamp the value would be in the millions. However, it’s the only known example with the Asprey stamp, which makes it truly unique in comparison to all the other 350 Patek Philippe ref. 2499 that’s ever been made.

The last time this very watch sold was twelve years ago, then for 2.2 million CHF, which is approximately 1.6 million USD less than the 2018 price. In other words – if you want to invest in watches, make sure to buy unique one-of-a-kind pieces!

Patek

“The Asprey”, sold for $3,900,000 USD

Last time a Patek Philippe ref. 2499 made massive headlines was in 2012 when it sold for 3.6 million USD by Christie’s. The unique features were two:
1) it belonged to the iconic singer-songwriter Eric Clapton,
2) the watch was in platinum.
A great provenance, such as Clapton, will always add money. But why is platinum a significant feature? Well, there are only about 30 vintage Patek Philippe watches that are made in platinum, and many are owned by Patek Philippe themselves; meaning that you very rarely see vintage Patek Philippe watches in platinum for sale. Even more interestingly, Eric Clapton’s ref. 2499 was originally made personally for Philippe Stern in 1987 – a truly unique watch in only two editions!

Eric Clapton's ref. 2499 in platinum, sold for $3,600,000 USD

Eric Clapton’s ref. 2499 in platinum, sold for $3,600,000 USD

When Sotheby’s sold “The Aprey”, they used the phrase “One of the Most Important Vintage Wristwatches in the World” in their marketing. Indeed, the 2499 is widely considered to be one of the all-time greatest wristwatches there is! It was manufactured between 1950 and 1985, during which 349 pieces were made. Out of the 351, almost all were done in yellow gold beside the approximately 10 % in rose gold, and – as written above – Philippe Stern’s personal two-edition platinum watches. In fact, the most expensive watch ever to be sold in Asia is a rose gold 2499, which fetched approximately 3 million USD.

A rose gold ref. 2499

A rose gold ref. 2499

Another interesting fact about the famous ref. 2499 is that there are four different types, knows as firstsecondthird and fourth series. The differences may not appear to be huge while just reading them, but if you compare the images below then you’ll see the big impact that small features have.

– FIRST SERIES: Square chronograph buttons, applied Arabic numerals and tachometer scale.

– SECOND SERIES: Round chronograph buttons, either applied baton or applied Arabic numerals and tachometer scale.

– THIRD SERIES: Round chronograph buttons, applied baton numerals and outer seconds divisions.

– FOURTH SERIES: Round chronograph buttons, applied baton numerals, outer seconds divisions and sapphire crystal.

Patek Philippe ref. 2499 first series

Patek Philippe ref. 2499 first series

Patek Philippe ref. 2499 second series

Patek Philippe ref. 2499 second series

Patek Philippe ref. 2499 third series

Patek Philippe ref. 2499 third series

Patek Philippe ref. 2499 fourth series (with a Tiffany & Co. stamp)

Patek Philippe ref. 2499 fourth series (with a Tiffany & Co. stamp)

Sources: www.sothebys.com, www.phillips.com, www.antiquorum.com

The post The most expensive watch of the year appeared first on WATCH ANISH.

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Half Million Dollar Watch (500,000$) : Bovet Récital 22 Grand Récital

Can a watch actually cost half a million dollar? Well, Bovet have an answer for you! Top Luxury Watches can cost millions of dollars in reality. Rather the world’s most expensive watch was sold for over a whopping 25 million dollars by Breguet Watches

Bovet Most Expensive Watch

This time Bovet has created an incredible timepiece which just looks amazing, to begin with.

Just as the cosmos knows no bounds, so too, the infinite scope of BOVET Owner Pascal Raffy’s imagination takes its latest form in a newly formed trilogy of celestial timepieces. The Récital 22 Grand Récital tourbillon forms the third chapter in the poetic watchmaking narrative begun by Pascal Raffy and Maison’s artisans two years ago. Together, they now invite us to observe the three heavenly bodies that set the pace of our lives: the sun, earth, and moon.

This grand astronomical theater has been presented by BOVET in a Tellurium-Orrery, with the sun represented by the flying tourbillon, whose carriage bridge evokes fiery rays. The striking hemispherical earth rotates on its own axis and shows the hours on a natural 24-hour cycle. Finally, a spherical moon orbits the earth according to the exact length of its synodic period, i.e. 29.53 days.

Buy Bovet Watches for Men in New Delhi, India
Buy Bovet Watches for Men in New Delhi, India

To accentuate the splendor of the sun, the tourbillon carriage has been raised above the surface of the movement. Its original patented construction is characterized by its central attachment, endowing the piece with exemplary chronometry, while achieving a peerless level of transparency. Meanwhile, the five arms of the titanium carriage bridge surround the regulating organ. This three-dimensional representation of the sun showcases the finish of the bridge’s five arms, rounded by hand, which subtly frame the timepiece’s celestial decoration. By rotating once every sixty seconds, the tourbillon indicates the seconds by a hand affixed directly to the carriage wheel and travels over a scaled twenty-second sector.

 

The earth is represented by a hemisphere on the Récital 22, the surface of which is adorned with an engraved and hand-painted map, on which the oceans, mountains, deserts, and forests are executed in painstaking detail. The difficulty of working on a hemispherical surface is compounded by the use of a technique unveiled by BOVET in 2017, in which the artisan incorporates luminescent substances into the miniature painting. In this way, the earth becomes a radiant highlight in the dark, as the earth itself appears in the heavens above. The artisan’s work continues with extreme delicacy, applying several successive layers of transparent lacquer to the globe’s surface before it is polished.

Bovet Watches are available in New Delhi India for sale at Johnson Watch Co.

 

The post Half Million Dollar Watch (500,000$) : Bovet Récital 22 Grand Récital appeared first on Luxury Watch Blog.

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